Monywa is a worthwhile trip for Burmese temple
enthusiasts or others who just want to go where few travelers go. It lies 136 km
north-west of Mandalay along the Mandalay-Budalin branch railway line but is
best reached by bus.
Situated on the eastern bank of the Chindwin River, Monywa serves as a major
trade center for agricultural produce from the surrounding. Chindwin Valley,
especially beans, pulses and jiggery (palm sugar). In addition to some 600
warehouses,
Monywa supports mills for the production of cotton, flour, noodles
and edible oils. Rough cotton blankets from Monywa are famous in Myanmar. some
even end up sewn into knapsacks which are sold to tourists in Bangkok. Other
regional crafts traded here include mats and baskets made of bamboo and reed,
bullock carts and agricultural implements such as hoes and machetes.
Black-market goods from India, especially saris and bicycle parts, pass through
Monywa on their way to other parts of Myanmar. A forest reserve west of the
Chindwin River produces teak and other hardwoods.
The Monywa area - particularly the region west of the river - was for many years
a centre for the Burmese Communist Party. Although the BCP is no longer active
here or elsewhere in Myanmar, military intelligence in Monywa can be
particularly watchful.
The old market near the river is still active despite the large new market sheds
built by the government near the Monyaw Hotel and Great Hotel. Most likely this
is because the government ordered the relocation of a Muslim cemetery to make
way for the new market; people fear the hats that may have been left behind.
There is talk of building a km-long bridge across the Chindwin at Monywa as part
of the so-calle "Western Highway" that may some day link Pathein (Bassein)
in the south-west delta with Ye U in the north-west. With the northern reaches
of Sagaing Division opening up to foreigners, Monywa can serve as a stepping
stone for Chindwin River trips north-west to Kalewa. From Kalewa it's just a
short road trip to the Chin State.
Twinn Hill, in Budalin township about three km east of the river, stands only
200 meters above the surrounding plain but features a deep round lake. According
to some sources the depression holding the lake was left behind by a volcanic
eruption: others say a meteorite bounced of the earth's crust here.
Monywa is one of the hottest places in the entire country in April and May, when
temperatures approaching or exceeding 40 degree celcus are not uncommon.
Festivals
Monywa sits at a north-western edge of what might be termed the 'nat belt', a
region of Upper Myanmar where the nat cult is particularly strong. Nat pwe
followers will find the Zeedaw Nat Festival a Zeedaw and Maungdon (cross the
Chindwin River at Monywa and travel 22 km west along the Yimmabin road) between
the 8th day of the waning moon and between the first and seventh days of the
waxing moon of Tabaung (Febuary/March).
Coinciding with the festival at Zeedaw, the Ahlone Nat festival is celebrated at
Ma Ngwe Daung (12 km north of Monywa on the Shwebo road)
Places to Stay & Eat
On the north-eastern side of the main road into town, the new Great Hotel (071-21930)
has rooms with good mattress and attached shower and toilet for US$10 per
person. Although the rooms themselves aren't air conditioned, the corridors are.
Next door, in a similar style, is Shweltaw Guest House which didn't accept
foreigners at the time.
A bit further in towards the town centre on the same side of the road as the
accomodation listed above is the recently privatised Monywa Hotel (071-21549).
Wooden bungalows with corrugated metal roofs are divided into four rooms, each
with attached hot-water bath, fridge and air-con for US$24/30 single/double, or
Us$30/36 for slightly better-furnished rooms with TV. All rates include
breakfast. One of the Monywa Hotel's main advantages is its pleasant outdoor
bar. This hotel is supposedly about to undergo renovation so prices may
change.
The Pann Cherry Restaurant in the centre of town near the old market
serves good Chinese food in both the open-sided dining room downstairs and the
air-con room upstairs.
AROUND MONYWA
Thanboddhay Paya
The big attraction in Monywa is the magnificent, Mt Meru-type structure. From
the outside the central stupa is vaguely reminiscent of Borobudur in Indonesia,
though considerable smaller. Small stupas numbering 845 surround the richly
decorated central stupa.
First built in 1303 by Monywa Sayadaw, Thanboddhay assumed its present from
during a major reconstruction in 1939. The solid section of the monument is said
to enclose 7350 relics and other holy materials. Inside the attached pahto,
votive Buddhas of bone and other materials decorate every wall and larger
sitting and standing Buddhas in niches. Altogether these images reportedly
number 582,363.
Ancillary buildings in the compound resemble place architecture from the
konbaung era (18th and 19th centuries) and feature three-dimensional jataka relief's
on their exteriors.
The paya complex is open daily 6:30 am to 5 pm; admission is free. Thanboddhay
is located 19km south-east of Monywa on the north-eastern side of the main road
from Mandalay, just past a small bridge.
Ledi Kyaung
This monastery at the north-eastern edge of the township, 21 km north-east of
town on the road to Ye U, was constructed in 1886 by order of renowned Pali
scholar Ledi Sayadaw. Similar in concept to Kuthodaw Paya in Mandalay, the kyaung
features 806 stone slabs inscribed with Buddhist scriptures.
Shwe Gu Nyi Paya
About 20 km east of town via a scenic tow lane road is one of the most important
pilgrimage sports in Upper Myanmar. Dating to the 14 century, the main zedi of
Shwe Gu Nyi Paya rises to 33 meters (an auspicious height made even more so when
measured in feet - 108) and is famous for its 'wish-fulling' powers. The main
antechamber to the shrine hall contains exemplary jataka paintings and is well
decorated with mosaics.
Kyaukka
This village just beyond Shwe Gu Nyi Paya has been a center for the crafting of
lacquerware since the Konbaung era. The pieces produced here are for the most
part more basic and utilitarian than those make in Bagan. Consisting of simple
bamboo frames finished in black, silver or gold (or some combination thereof),
the lacquerware here shows more links to the pre-Chiang Mai styles which existed
before the Bagan artisan's began using a lacquer and incising techniques which
allowed different colours to show through the outer layers. Becuse Kyaukka is
less frequented by tourists, prices are particularly low though you won't find
any pieces quite as striking as in Bagan. In output, however, the village is
second only to Bagan and the pieces make here are very strong.
The road to Kyaukka is lined with picturesque tamarind trees and rice fields.
Pickups to Kyaukka leave a couple of times in the morning from Monywa's central
market; the last one back leaves around 4pm.
Po Win Daung Caves
Its a short ferry ride across the Chindwin River to Nyaungbingyi, followed by a
25 km drive to this system of sandstone caves situated in a cleft in the Po win
Daung (Po Win Hills). the hills have probably been occupied since the down of
human habitation in Myanmar, to the south-west lies the Pon-daung-pon-nya
mountain range, where the fossilised remains of 'Pondaung Man' - who may have
lived 30 millions years ago - were found.
The caves and surrounding hills are named after U Po Win, a famous zawgyi
(alchemist) who once lived among them. The
caves themselves contain Buddhist
statues and murals dating to the 17th and 18th centuries. Most exhibit the Inwa
style, though some may date as far back as the 14th to 16th centuries. A covered
stairway climbs a hill to main cave shrie. but here are dozens of large and
small caves in the area filled with old Buddhas. There are said to be over
400000 image in these and other nearby caves.
Shwe Ba Hill, just beyond Po Win Daung, features unique pavilions cut
from the surrounding standstone and filled with plain Buddha images.
History of Monywa
central
Myanmar (Burma). It is situated on the left bank of the Chindwin River, about 60
miles (97 km) west of Mandalay. During World War II, the town was a Japanese
communications centre and was captured by the British in 1945. In October of
1952, the Triple Alliance Pact was signed near Monywa, demarcating zones
throughout Myanmar in which various ethnic and political groups, including the
Karen, Shan, Kachin, and communists, would have power. Monywa is situated in the
dry zone above the confluence of the Mu and Chindwin rivers; paddy rice, sesame,
millet, peas, wheat, and cotton are cultivated in the surrounding area. Monywa's
manufactures include textiles and wood and bamboo products. Copper is mined near
Monywa, and a copper refinery has operated in Salingyi since 1976. A hospital
was built in Monywa in 1972. Paved roads and a railway line run through the
town. Pop. (1983) 106,873.
Photo from
Ayeyarwady (Japan)
Note: This city has a beautiful history and
wonderful people for Burmese society. We will collect more data and update the
website. We hope all people ever lived and worked at Monywa city will
enjoy on this website..
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